***** (5 stars)
“a wonderfully engrossing experience”
This stunning exhibition needs visited several times to get the full benefit – you can go as a film and television buff, as a costume fancier, a textile nut, an embroidery anorak, and still on a fifth visit you will find more to marvel at… I had to catch a train afterwards, so wasn’t able to spend time with the displays after my curator-guided tour had ended: I know I have to make time to come back as many times as I can manage!
London-based costume house Cosprop was founded in 1965 by John Bright who at the time was combining careers British repertory theatre in acting, stage managing and costume design.
He’d also spent his life collecting vintage clothing and accessories in the flea markets of Paris and antique markets of London. He decided to start a costume house, using this collection and donations from family and friends – and so Cosprop was born. It’s a combination of museum, research facility, workshop and wardrobe, where costumes from an increasingly wide range of historical periods [and fantastical situations] can be found, studied, copied and borrowed, and the different construction methods learned and used for film, television and theatre productions.
Cosprop is possibly single-handedly responsible for the revolution in approach to period costume design, where accuracy not only of look but of construction methods is vital. Being guided round by the curator meant that we got to peek under skirts and see the incredible detail and care of construction of undergarments, the inside of hats, and many other tiny details that would probably not be noticed in the brief amount of a costume’s screen time, but contribute immeasurably to the actor’s realisation of a character. As Helena Bonham Carter said of Cosprop and her performance in the Merchant Ivory film Room with a View: “We entered Cosprop as ourselves and walked out as the person we were playing”.
You can’t actually see the actors in this exhibition – but they are almost there, tantalisingly ghost-like in the fabulous frocks and gorgeous garments on display, each superbly made and a delight to behold.
Film buffs can go on a ‘hunt the star’ trail – the list is endless! Helena Bonham Carter’s white frock, in which she was kissed on the hill overlooking Florence, is there. Top of many people’s list may be Colin Firth’s Mr Darcy outfit: not my hero, but I did love seeing Alan Rickman’s Colonel Brandon uniform from Sense and Sensibility. I was fascinated to find a frock worn by Elizabeth Taylor [in Young Toscanini – who knew?]; one of David Suchet’s Poirot suits; Jack Sparrow’s ‘looks as though it’s been slept in’ outfit from Pirates of the Caribbean: the curse of the black pearl; and an utterly gorgeous kimono-fabric-inspired frock for Rosalind in the 2006 As You Like It. Two of Eddie Redmayne’s costumes from The Danish Girl – a man’s suit and a beautiful sleeveless dress – reminded me of Lili’s poignant story. And there’s so much more!
Devotees of television series are not forgotten: I’m old enough to remember The Duchess of Duke Street and The House of Eliott, and delighted to see one of Louisa Trotter’s costumes, two of Bea and Evie’s frock,s and a glorious piece from one of their collections. Alas, there wasn’t anything from the original Forsyte Saga, but there are costumes from Downton Abbey and, and, and…
There’s jewellery, costume sketches, and photos from the workshops, showing in fabulous detail the care and precision with which every garment is made, and a series of short films for those who have the time…
Alas, I could only skim through this fantastic collection but will return as soon as I can. Don’t miss what is in itself a wonderfully engrossing experience but also the perfect antidote to the maelstrom which is fast approaching Edinburgh: do I need to remind you that Festival Season is fast approaching??!!
Costume Couture: Sixty years of Cosprop, Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh, Exhibition runs until 17th January 2027 for more information and tickets go to: Costume Couture: Sixty Years of Cosprop
ScotsGay Arts 